Carnaval, Belgian Style

For many, the word "Carnaval" means "that crazy festival in Rio de Janeiro." They immediately think of extravagant costumes and hypnotizing samba dancing. Like Mardi Gras in New Orleans but with a Latin flavor.

(Carnaval parade in Rio)

But spectacle aside, at it's heart it's just a four day festival that begins the Saturday before Ash Wednesday (though the parades start in earnest on Sunday, seven weeks before Easter Sunday). And you know what? It's not the only Carnaval festival in the world.

Venice is known to put on a fabulous show:

(Unfortunately we just missed Carnaval on our Venice trip last year)

And while not quite so elaborate as the one in Rio nor as full of intrigue as the one in Venice, Cologne holds a pretty interesting party each year:

(Carnaval revelers in Cologne, Germany)

[Sidenote: In 2009 we visited Cologne to see what all the fuss was about. Although there were some amazing costumes and hilarious parades, it was cold and rainy and just... icky. But that could be because Cologne itself is a bit of an odd city. Much of it was razed during the World Wars and the structures built afterwards are not exactly easy on the eyes. It's basically concrete, accented with concrete and topped off with more concrete. You can imagine how gorgeous it is in the rain. Shockingly, we have not been back. ]

(Celebrating Carnaval in Cologne, 2009. We started the morning off with more wigs but they were ruined in the rain...)

Now, if Rio's celebration is the "most feathery" and Venice's is the "most masked" and Cologne's is the "most gray and miserable" then Belgium's own Binche Carnival is easily the "most bizarre." In the world.

Although there are celebrations in various forms in the weeks leading up to Fat Tuesday, the events that draw the most attention take place on Mardi Gras. And they begin early.

As in 4am early.

With drums.

Dressed in traditional costumes (see picture below) that are passed down from father to son and can be 150 years old, the "Gilles" go from house to house, gathering their fellow men (gotta be a guy to be a Gilles) and greeting each other with champagne. Although it sounds a little crazy to be drinking champagne at 4am while in costume, this is apparently a very serious affair with many rules that must be followed.

(Gilles in traditional costume that consists of an ostrich-feather headpiece, green glasses, belt with bells and wooden shoes.)

Around 8am, the different groups of Gilles come together and have a breakfast of champagne & oysters. They then don special wax masks (I didn't get a picture of this myself as they took them off before the parade but see below for an example) and wait for the municipal authorities to give them the OK to begin the parade through town with their fellow Carnaval celebrators dressed up as Harlequins and peasants among other things.

While waiting for the festivities to begin, locals and tourists alike can be found packing the streets and spending the hours dancing, drinking and eating fair food. If they are REALLY cool they play with confetti:

Around 3:30 things get quiet and you start to hear the slow thunder of footsteps coming towards you. Which is when things get weird. (you know, because drums at 4am and ostrich feathers are totally normal...)

The low rumble is the result of 1,000+ Gilles, Harlequins and peasants slowly strolling through town carrying baskets of blood oranges which they gently toss to the waiting crowd.

(Orange AND confetti. Score!)

Note that is is what happens when you are nice.

If you taunt them, well, they don't so much "toss" as PELT.

So you better duck.

(The metal grates are not just for decoration...)

Looks like fun, no? Not too shabby for little old Belgium. If you think this is something you'd like to experience for yourself, it's not too late! Mardi Gras celebrations begin tomorrow at 4am!

For more information, check out the official Binche website HERE. (translated in English if you're French is a little rusty. Or non-existent.)